Howdy, Howdy, Internet~Land! Here it is, another weekend! At the end of the last post, I attached a picture of my stitches. Hope I didn’t gross anyone out too badly. My hands continue to heal, but the left one has had a little glitch. The cut split open a bit. The doctor said that was normal when one has had both hands operated on at the same time. I don’t have a “good” hand available to use while the other one heals, so both get a little over-used. It’s common for the healing to take longer. But the process continues. I’ll post a photo without the stitches after Maggie’s dress, so if you don’t want to look, stop there!

I have been able to start a few easy projects, but no sewing yet. I wanted you, my internet friends, to know I was thinking of you, so I tried my hand at another Maggie gown. It is an evening compliment to the last outfit. I got it done, but was surprised at how tired my hands were when finished! I say “hands,” because while one draws, the other is holding the paper still or adjusting its angle. I will gladly continue to go slow & steady! I am also going to see how plausible it might be to paint a resin doll head this weekend. It’s just a “practice head,” so if I really mess it up, it’s not a catastrophe. We’ll see how it goes. I may throw in a couple pics next time, if it’s not a disaster. In the meantime, here’s a new dress for Maggie’s night out. Remember to “copy & paste” or “save as” into your favorite application for printing. More outfits can be found in my “Free Stuff” tab and at my facebook page. Enjoy!

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings

OK ~ now for the pic of my hands. Ewwwwe!!! Gross!!! heeheehee!

Good morning, Internet-Land. Here I am ~ connecting to say, “Hello!” First ~ an update on my hands. They are continuing to mend. I still have stitches, so am keeping the surgery sites clean & covered. I also still use the wraps for a little support. The pain medication makes my hands feel better, so with that I tend to “over do.” If I slack off on the meds, I hurt more, but am more careful. I’m trying to find a middle ground. Given that, I haven’t been sewing, and have only finished the one Maggie outfit that I posted last time. I also take breaks during typing, as I rest my hands and also correct the unusual amount of typos! I will post a picture of my stitches at the end of the blog today. If you don’t want to see, click away from the site at the end! I wanted to warn you first, if you don’t like that kinda thing.

Today, since I don’t have any new creations ready, I thought I’d share some of my favorite things. I will readily admit that the world of dolly hobbies can very quickly become very expensive! When a friend first asked me to sew some custom orders for the Wilde Imagination Evangeline line, I needed a doll for fitting. I purchased my first doll of that body type, a Tonner Wicked Witch with lovely green skin and beautiful painted features, for $54.00. For me, that was the most economical way to go. My friend then contacted me with a proposal ~ she had won a “Black as Night Evangeline,” and was willing to send her directly to me in trade for some of my sewing. When she arrived, I was completely taken in by her inset glass eyes. I had fallen into the abyss. One at a time, I saved up to purchase all nine of my favorites! But now I was hooked. By selling at the doll shows, I was continually asked about clothing for all kinds of fashion dolls. I now have two 1/4 scale bjds, three 1/3 scale bjds, and a new 1/3 fella bjd on the way! All this to say that I do know how expensive things can get very, very quickly.

 

This brings me to the subject of today’s post. Since the dolls themselves can be so costly, I like to find bargains. I shop around. I buy some second hand. I look for good buys at the doll shows. I also like to find cool items I can use at unexpected places. That leaves more funds for the items I can’t make myself and want to be more fancy ~ like SHOES! I have, however, even found great buys for shoes, too. I watch a lot of eBay auctions. You will find lots of “buy it now” options, but by going through the auction process, you can often get better deals. You just might lose a few if you predetermine and stick by your highest bid amount. Most of my best deals have come by bidding on auctions that end in the middle of the night or very early morning hours. I’ve won some of my wonderful boots for around $7.00 by using this strategy. The “buy it now” price for the same item was about $19.00. Some shoes, however were not bargains, but “must haves,” so they were, of course, more. The great pair of tall, lace-up Ellowyne tennies were found at a show for $5.00!

Now, to share some of my super savings that you can find, too. I love to peruse the Dollar Tree store for items that can be used in my dolly ventures. Above are some of these items.  Check out the hair accessory aisle. I found these clear, tiny rubber bands that are perfect for styling dolly hair and wigs. I was also able to find the tiny clips. One package was a variety of colors, and the other was a combo of clear, black,and brown. These are really good for styling hair when you don’t want to use rubber bands on an expensive wig. Angelique is wearing a Monique Gold wig that is super nice and soft. I wanted an up-do, but didn’t want to have the hair bound up in any way. The clips were a great choice! These stores don’t always carry the same items, so take the time to check often for new inventory. It’s fun to find sweet tiny, decorative items that are geared for baby hair. These daisies have Velcro closures, but I closed them onto small Bobby-pins for easy insertion.

You can also find fun diorama items at good prices. I have noticed the last couple years that Wal-Mart has really fun items in the Christmas ornament aisle. I got this beaded lamp ornament for $1.94. My daughters chose the chandelier and top hat. The choices always change, so I look each year for new discoveries. I bought two of these jewelry dressers for $3.95 each. I also like to take my time looking through thrift stores. We found the cute little golf set for $2.00. It’s actually a set of ink pens. I purchased the wicker chair for $3.00 at St. Vincent de Paul. I’m still deciding whether or not to paint it. I was thinking of white or black, and then I would make red cushions. Hmmm ~ decisions, decisions…

So, that’s my fun for today. I suppose that would be my point ~ have fun! Yes, some specialty items are just that ~ and they will naturally carry the accompanying price tag. But you can also have a great time treasure hunting! Every experience will be unique and will bring its own particular rewards. (and as promised, I am posting a picture of my stitches, so if you have a queasy stomach, look no further) Wishing you a wonderful adventure!

Hello, hello, Internet-Land! Well ~ my hands have made it through surgery & are in the steps of recovery, so this post will be short. Just wanted to check in with a new Maggie outfit & update. All is well and continuing to heal, though I must admit, I’m already tired of this process! Wishing you well!

Hello Hello, Internet-Land! This morning I’m happy to post another sewing tutorial. I’ve been getting a couple tutorials ready, as my hand surgery is scheduled for TOMORROW! Very excited to get my hands fixed, but that means big bandages on BOTH hands for a few days. I thought I’d better get things ready & start posting them. Today we’ll be going through the steps to make a pants pattern. Here we go!

SUPPLIES

The first step is to gather the things you will need and the doll you want to fit. Since I already have pants patterns for Matt, I’m going to be using my Tonner Peter Pevensie. He’s been naked & needing clothes for quite a while now! He has the same body style as Wilde Imagination Mortimer. My supplies are: .25″ graph paper, pencil & eraser, tape measure, and a 12″ ruler.

MEASUREMENTS

First, I gather all my measurements. I measure the waist (I will use the lower waist for these men’s pants.), waist/leg length, waist-to-front crotch, waist-to-inseam, thigh diameter, calf diameter, and foot-heel diameter. Remember, our dolls are not soft like us, but usually hard plastic or resin. This means that really skinny pantlegs will need to be big enough around to clear the heels or have ankle slits (with zippers or snaps), so they can actually go onto the fella!

DRAFTING THE PATTERN

Time to start drawing! I begin with a straight line down the center of my paper. I used 8.5 x 11 inch graph paper. You just need paper that is long enough for your pantlegs. Now my measurements come into play. I measure down from the top of the paper on my straight line and mark the measurement of the waist-to-front-of-crotch (not to inseam). I also allow an extra quarter inch that I will need at the top for a seam allowance. The straight line will be my outer side seam, and the mark I made will be the point from which I measure out to indicate the crotch line and inseam. I like to use graph paper, because the horizontal lines are a huge help in making sure my lines are continually 90 degrees out from my side seam line. From my first mark, I measure out 3.25 inches. This is half the diameter of the thigh plus a half inch to allow for looseness and seam allowance. From the top, I measure out 2.25 inches. I rounded the waist up to an even 9 inches to have room for a good fit. If you only use the exact doll measurements, clothes will usually end up too small. Now I place in a dart to have a nice fit in the back. Without it, the pants would go straight up like a stovepipe, rather than curving in nicely over the bum. Because the darts will take the waistline in, I add a half inch to the outside of the pants side seam. Next, I make sure the waist-to-crotch line has the correct measurement. I like using the tape measure here, because it easily curves with the line.

At the bottom of the photo, I have indicated half of the ankle measurement (with a little looseness added) for the hem line. From the hem line, I measure straight up one half inch. To draw the inseam, I draw a straight diagonal line (from the half inch mark I just made) that goes up to my 4.75″ mark and out .5″ from my original hem mark. Then I continue this line, gently curving it to meet the crotch line. The way you configure this line will determine the “look” of your pants. The “straighter up” the line, the “skinnier” the leg. For this tutorial, we will have a looser fitting leg, so there is more slant to the line from the hem to the crotch. Now you just need to add seam allowance to both sides for a finished Pants Back Pattern Piece. (Going from the very top to bottom of the paper will give enough length.)

To draft the front, I put the back piece under a new sheet of paper and place onto my light table. I indicate a pocket line at the side. The longer line of the pocket will be the finished edge, and the shorter line is the seam allowance. To make the front crotch and fly, I go in from the crotch-inseam about one half inch and then curve up one half inch. The fly will come straight down from waist edge almost equal to the crotch marking. This provides room for the overlap of the fly and the needed seam allowances. It also gives enough room for a small front pleat. (You can see where I scribbled to extend the fly allowing more fabric because of adding the pleat.)

Next will be the waist and pocket pieces. I always make my waistband pieces longer than I need. It is simple to shorten it if needed, but you can’t lengthen it once it’s cut! I add about an inch to my waist just to be safe. The pocket piece will again use the light table. I trace the outer pocket edge and add my inside width and length. Then double the width to allow for the “fold back” or inside section of the pocket that actually shows on the outside of the pants when finished.

And now you’re ready to cut out your pieces! You will need two of the pants front, pants back, and pants pocket. Then just cut one of the waistband.

SEWING!

OK ~ Here’s your BONUS! We’re also going to put these pants together today! 🙂 Remember ~ all seam allowances are .25.”

First, I do all my “prep” work. Mark the darts and pleat lines onto the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Then finish the inside edges of the fly by serging or zig-zagging.

Second, I sew the darts and pleats. Fold the darts down the center and sew from tip to edge. For pleats, match lines and sew on lines. I actually only sewed .75″ rather than the full length of the lines on my pattern. Press them towards the center/crotch line.

Third, we’ll put in the pockets! With right sides together, stitch the curved edge of the pocket. Then trim the seam allowance to one eighth inch. Turn the pocket right-side-out and topstitch one eighth inch away from sewn edge. Remember ~ you’re only working with the curved edge of the pocket right now ~ not the side! When the topstitching is done, fold the other edge of the pocket fabric to the side seam of the pants. The pocket will have about a quarter inch fold (or pleat) at the top along the waistline. Press this down flat.

Now finish the bottom edge of the pocket by serging or zig-zag, as it will show in the finished garment. When the bottom is done, I stay-stitch the top edge of the waist at one eighth inch laying down the both pocket pleat the pants pleat fabric towards the center. Then I stay-stitch the side seam of the pocket to the side seam of the pants. Do the same process to both pieces of the pants front.

Fourth, we will put the fronts together. With right sides together, sew the crotch fronts together along the line. I then do a tiny zig-zag along the crotch line to reinforce it, trimming off the excess seam allowance. The next part of the front can be a little tricky. Since men’s pants overlap from the left, you will fold the left side of the fly in so that the folded edge is flush with the center front of the pants. The right side of the fly will only be folded in .25″ so it will fall behind the front of the fly when finished. Topstitch both the folded edges down almost to the crotchline. Next, lay the pants front flat and topstitch from the stitching you just did to the center/crotch front seam. This will secure the bottom of the fly as shown.

Fifth, sew and finish the back crotch line. Then pin fronts and backs together, sewing & finishing the sideseams. Then finish and sew the hems.

Step six is to add the waistband. With right sides together, pin the center of the waistband to the center back of the pants. Continue pinning each side until you get to the center. Here is where you can trim off excess length of the waistband if you need to do so.Then fold ends in and stitch waistband to pants. Now fold under unsewn edge of waistband and either hand sew or machine sew edge inside the pants. All that’s left is to pin and sew/finish the inseam!

Ready for a fitting test!

Looks good! Now you’re ready to give it a try! If you would like to have the finished version of this pattern, I will be posting it in my “Free Stuff” tab and on my facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings

Enjoy & have a wonderful week! Catch’a later!

Greetings & Salutations, Internet-Land!

I had a college professor who used to say, “Learn to enjoy the ‘regular’ days.” That quote has become one of my “life staples.” So many times people live from “high” to “high,” and I don’t mean chemically. I mean emotionally ~ from event to event or holiday to holiday. OK, Christmas is over ~ what’s coming next? What do we do with all the days in between? Are they wasted away in anticipation of the next big thing? It seems a sad commentary to me. Instead, I have taken that old quote and made it my own. Just what can I squeeze out of TODAY? It’s not a holiday. There’s no big event. It’s just February 11, 2017.

So ~ I woke up at 6:15am. I usually get up at 3:45am, so for me it’s definitely “sleeping in!” I thought to myself, “What would I like to accomplish today?” My answer was to bring some fun and positivity to my world. Not many people regularly visit here, but for those who do, I want to bring a lift to your day. Find something you love today. Then share it with someone. It’s surprising what those small things can do to help others as much as ourselves. Just a note, phone call, or text to say, “I’m thinking of you today,” can mean so much. Today I will be working on Valentines for some of my old students.

So, to those of you who stop by my blog ~ Thank You! You are appreciated. I may not know you at all, but I would wish for you a smile and friendly greeting. I’m thinking of you today! And to add some fun, here is a new outfit for Maggie. As always, just “copy & paste” or “save as” to put into your favorite app for printing on 8.5×11 size paper. She also has a new outfit on my facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings

Enjoy and have a wonderful weekend!

Happy wishes to you, Internet-Land! So ~ my last tutorial was about making a basic sheath style dress for Evangeline (January 8, 2017). As an alternative to the pattern we put together, I also added the variation of a V-style back on the gown. Well, any time I make a pattern, I want to put one together to make sure it works. It actually did, and I was happy with the “look,” but not quite satisfied with the mechanical aspects of the back facing pieces. I am all for making things better! Tonight I am posting the full pattern here with the REVISED V-style back facing piece. I will also add the revised images to my facebook page where the pattern was originally posted and in my “free stuff” tab here on the website. In the picture, you can see what needed tweaking. I made the length of the new pieces longer to run the full length of the open back for a more finished look without the bulky edge of the facing hem mid-way down the back opening. These pattern images are formatted to 8×11 size paper. Just “copy & paste” or “save as” to insert into your favorite app for printing. Wishing you all a super-duper week and happy sewing!

Hello, hello, Internet-Land! I hope all is well with you this last day of January 2017. Can you believe it’s already been a whole month into the new year? My daughter said it was slow for her, but it’s gone by really fast for me. Just an update on my goofy hands situation. I am now waiting on a call from the surgeon. In the meantime, my hands are returning to their “normal” state of agitation, so I was happy to be able to finish a couple new Maggie outfits for you. As I look out my office window, I see through the bare branches of my curly willow tree. I mentioned on my facebook page that I love seeing the limbs against the winter sky. That view is what inspired these two new looks. Just click on the image, then right click to select “copy” or “save as” to move into your favorite app for printing. Maggie and her clothing pieces are formatted to 8.5×11 size paper. I will post it here, but will also post it on my “free stuff” tab.

The other outfit can be found on my facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings

To see more fun there, just click on “photos” to either  view “all photos” or select the album of choice. Wishing you a great February ~ Enjoy!

Greetings and Salutations, Internet-Land!

So glad to connect with you again. Last weekend was a bit rough, so I didn’t get a post published. Just so you’re aware (and this is important; it may change your life), I’m a complete baby when it comes to pain. I’m not afraid of pain and can endure it well, but I feel pain most acutely. Seriously, I can feel when I get a flea bite. Does that mean I may be some kind of super hero in the making? Probably not, but it does come into play regarding my late post. Last Friday I was scheduled to have a nerve study done on my hands. I was NOT prepared. No one told me it would be like letting someone continually zap me with a TASER! And then there was the needle moving around in my hand. The doctor looked over all the graphs and numbers on the computer and nonchalantly informed me that surgery is in my near future. OK ~ this will be an adventure. Saturday, my hands were pretty much useless. No drawing, no sewing, and no typing.

As of today, however, my hands are getting back to their pre-taser state, and though sore, I can get some things done. I am working on a couple new outfits for Maggie, and will give you a sneak peek in the photos below. I am also hoping to get some much needed sewing done this coming weekend, so it may be into next week before I post again. In the meantime, I will post the link for the Doll and Teddy Bear Show & Sale. It’s a great site with lots of dolly info and resources. Enjoy and have a super week!

http://dolls4all.com/portland-or/

Greetings and salutations, Internet-Land! Last year I posted on the blog how to make your own pattern for a Tonner Matt shirt (wow ~ that sounds like I’ve been doing this for ages ~ heeheehee). It seemed to be very well received, so I thought I’d do a similar one to kick off the new year. I have an up-coming doll show at the end of this month, and have been getting some of my coats ready to display. I like to sell the long coats with a simple sheath gown. I have already made the pattern for Ellowyne, but hadn’t done one for Evie yet. As I was preparing, I thought, “Why not just put the process on the blog?” So, I grabbed my handy little camera and went to work. Last time, making the pattern and then sewing it were in two different blog posts. This time it’s all in one, since sewing the first one will show the corrections I need to make in order for the gown to fit correctly. Since Matt has no bust line with which to contend, his torso is a lot easier! You can follow these steps for any doll, so strap in and get ready for the ride!

MAKING YOUR SHEATH DRESS PATTERN

First ~ the supplies. I gather together the doll I need to fit, paper, scissors, some non-stretch scrap fabric, pins, pencil, ruler, and a measuring tape.

Now to start. I first measure the bustline and wrap the non-stretch fabric around the doll. I cut the fabric, leaving about a quarter inch “pinch” at each edge to allow for the back seam overlap where the snaps will be sewn. Then I pinch and pin the excess for the waist at two sides in the front and two sides in the back. This will indicate where the darts need to go. Then I draw pencil marks on the full bustline & waistline and at each side of each “dart.”

Now I open up the fabric and extend the bustline and waistline markings. Then I mark the dart lines onto the waistline and bring them to a point about one half inch lower than the full bustline. I make the back darts (the ones to the outer edges of fabric) slightly smaller. These markings are now ready to be transferred to the paper. For Evangeline, I chose 8.5×14 size paper, because she is so tall. I folded the paper in half length-ways & marked the center. From that line, I drew in the waist, bust, and darts for the front of the dress. Remember to divide your total waist into four sections, as you will only be drawing half of the front and one of the side-backs. (The front will be folded down the center & both sides  of that piece cut at the same time.) I used centimeters to measure and mark the darts, as the lines of measurement were more accurate than trying to divide inches into 16ths.

Next, I measure Evie’s hips and make sure to indicate that on the paper. Then I draw the length of the dress. You can make it any length you like. For this gown, I am going to choose a full length with a slight train in the back, so I add the flare I want and go slightly longer on the sides. IMPORTANT!!! Now ADD a quarter inch seam allowance on the outside of every line!!!! Then I fold it length-ways and cut.

Now I am ready to make the back piece. Keeping the front folded, I place the center about a quarter inch from the center of a new folded paper. This gives me seam allowance for the back, since it is two pieces that will need to overlap. I then trace around the edges (since my first piece already included a seam allowance). I raise the neckline for the back and slightly extend the outer edges of the arm holes for more coverage in the back. Now transfer the waistline and the darts from your fabric markings, making sure to keep the distances the same from the side edges of the fabric & the center back of your pattern (measuring from the actual sewing line rather than the seam allowance line). Remember, the outer sides of the fabric were where you closed the fabric at the doll’s back. Now for the hemline. From the sides, I draw a line down to the center for my train. One small hint ~ where ever you have seams meet (like at the sides or center back), it it good to leave at least a quarter inch of slightly level horizontal line. It may look weird, but I find it’s easier for me to have this little seam allowance level. Now cut out your back piece.

Now you are ready to make the facings for the neckline and arm holes. Just trace around the edges of your pieces and come down the center and sides at least one and a quarter inch (I used 3.5 centimeters). Then gently curve the line from the side up to the center for the front and down a bit from the sides to the center back as shown in the photo. For the front facing, you can cut on the fold just like we did for the front of the dress. The back piece will just be one side of the back. Now your pieces are ready to do a sewing test run!

SEWING YOUR PATTERN

**My patterns use 1/4 inch seam allowance, and remember to back-tack at beginning and ending of seams.**

To try out a pattern, I first always pick a non-stretch fabric. I want to know how the pattern actually fits before trusting to stretchy fabric. I pulled out some cute printed cotton/poly blend that does not have any “give.” This way, if it works ~ great! ~ if not, it’s no big deal to scrap it. I lay out the pattern pieces length-ways with the grain of the cloth, placing my folded front pieces on the fold of my fabric. I just like to do this, as it makes for less cutting and more accuracy with the evenness of my front sides. Once the pieces are cut, I indicate my dart markings onto the wrong side of the fabric. Now if you’re an experienced sewer, you can just indicate the dart points. If you’re a beginner, it may prove useful to draw the entire dart. To sew, you fold the fabric (right sides together) length-ways down the center of the dart and sew from top point to side point and then down to bottom point. Sew all four darts on the front and back pieces, then joint the front and back pieces (right sides together) at the shoulders. Do this step with both the dress pieces and the facing pieces. When I place the darted front up to my doll, I can see that I will need to adjust by adding more darts for a better fit (you can see it in the photo by my finger), but we’ll get to that later. For now, I’m just staying with the pattern as it is.

I also like to top-stitch my shoulder seam allowances down, as this makes it easier for turning right-side-out later. Next, I finish the lower edges of my facings and the center back edges of my back pieces. I have a serger machine, but you can also do this with a small stitch-length zig-zag. I do NOT hem the facings, because a hemline will often create enough extra bulk that it will show through the front when the garment is finished.

The next step is to sew the facing to the garment. Line up and pin the neckline and the arm hole edges and pin in place. You will now sew the center back edge-neck line-center back edge, and the two arm holes. DO NOT sew down the sides! Then clip the seam allowances of the neck line and arm holes close to the seam in about one quarter inch sections. This will allow your curved seams to lay nice an flat once you turn it right-side-out, which is next. I used a turning stick, but a small dowel will work. Wrap a small portion of the back hem around the stick and gently slide it up under the facing and through the shoulder as shown. Now the next part is important ~ CAREFULLY pull the fabric all the way through the shoulder opening. This can get a bit tricky if you try to pull it through all at once. Each time you pull some, gently adjust the remaining amount so it’s not all bunched up. That makes it much easier. If you try it all at once, you risk tearing both the seams and the fabric.

Now you will see why we didn’t sew down the sides of the facing. It’s time to put together the sides of the dress. With right sides together, lift up the facing and start by matching the arm hole seams. It’s more important to match the seams than the hems of the facings. Then pin the sides of the facings and gown, making sure to match the curves of the side. I stitch this on my sewing machine and then finish the edges with my serger, since this edge will be exposed. Again, you can do this or zig-zag. I just prefer not to have any raw edges showing in my garments. Once the sides are sewn, I pin together the center back and sew a seam that starts about one and three quarter inches from the hip line. When I start, I double back-tack, as this is where the doll will go into the dress, and it needs to be extra secure. Sew from there down to the hemline. It’s important not to sew too high up, or you will not be able to get the doll’s bum and hips through the opening of the waistline. The pen is pointing at my starting place. Now press the facing down at the neck & arms, making sure your underarm seam allowances are all nice & flat.

It’s time to try it on the doll. As you can see in the photos, her bust line is ok, but it leaves large gaps by the arm holes. I will add darts to close this up ~ pins are in place. The back is problematic as well, so again, I will add in darts to fix it.

Now that I added in the darts and hemmed the dress, it’s a good fit.

My next step is to correct my pattern pieces. I indicate the new darts onto the front. The back is a bit more tricky. I indicate the darts I added and folded the piece down. But this would be far too drastic of a shape change. Then I drew in the adjustments I wanted and added in the needed dart so my sewn sides will match up correctly. I also dropped the outside edge of the shoulders and added a bit more flare to the skirt. Lastly, I made a new back facing piece to match the new pattern. I also noticed that it would be a nice option to have an open V-back, so indicated that on the pattern piece and made a facing piece for that option. Once the pieces were made, I gave it another run with new fabric. I followed all the same steps. This time I was happy with the pattern, needing no further adjustments.

To finish, I used three snaps to close the back of the dresses. Now they are ready to be shown with the accompanying coats!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and that it has been helpful for you. My “refined” pattern is now available at my facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings

Wishing you a great and wonderful week! ~ missy

Well, here it is, Internet-Land, we’ve made it through 2016. Another year has passed, and we look forward to a new beginning. As I was transferring some data from my old planner to  my new one, I found a page on which I had written out some goals for 2016. I was so pleased to find that I had actually accomplished all four of them. (Remember ~ I never make big, unrealistic resolutions.) First on the list was to design a set of fairy paper dolls. Not only did I complete the printed set, but have had so much fun adding to it with exclusive dolls and outfits just for you, my internet friends! Secondly, was to select items from that set to make into real doll clothing. This one wasn’t as abundant, but I did make one into an outfit, and it has sold. (I still have four more to make of that design, as it is a limited edition of five.) Thirdly, was to choose a name and logo for my very own “brand.” I am still pleased with my choice of “Missy’s Imaginings,” and still love my hydrangea design. One of the highlights for this year was finding the beautiful hydrangea fabric for my doll show table skirting. Lastly, was to start up a website or blog. Happily, this turned out to be a two-in-one project. I am tickled that not only did I start this project, but have faithfully posted almost every week. This is my 40th blog post for 2016!

Sometimes it’s easy to get discouraged when looking over a year and seeing all the negatives that may have presented themselves. As we come to the close of 2016, take some time to look at the positive things you’ve experienced. Maybe you took a vacation. Maybe you met a friend. Maybe you changed a job. Maybe you had a really fun day with your children or grandchildren … or great grandchildren. Maybe you added to a collection. Maybe you found a super good recipe. It could be anything ~ big or small. Just think of all the good things that came your way this year. Then think, “How can I make more of that good stuff come my way this year? How can I direct more good stuff towards those I love?” Tonight as we count down the minutes to 2017, let your sights be set on those things that are good, lovely, true, pure, and virtuous. You CAN direct your path for 2017 ~ Wishing you a Very Merry New Year!

Maggie’s additional New Year’s outfit can be found at

http://www.facebook.com/missysimaginings